Loading color scheme

Walking Cornwall's Coast

In 2011, my husband and I made the decision to walk the entire coastal path of Cornwall. With much enthusiasm and convinced that we would complete it in a few months, we set off from Hartland Quay in Devon so that we may experience crossing the county's border on foot. We aimed to walk a section of the path whenever we could spare the time, however due to other commitments (both work and leisure), changeable weather and (shamefully) lack of dedication, we have yet to complete the 422 miles (697km) path. Last week, 11 years after we had started, we arrived in Sennen Cove and made a promise (as we do every time we walk a section of the coastline), to not leave it so long before we walk the next part.

The National Trust is primarily responsible for the path. In most places it is well maintained and signposted, ranging from easy to challenging ratings. "Challenging" can refer to the steep ascents and descents, rough ground or the danger due to its close proximity to the edge (although there are usually alternative routes and diversions to offer the walker a safer course). The Cornish section of the South West Path is beautiful and hugs the coastline (except for a short bit that takes you on the road between Hayle to St.Ives). Dramatic cliffs and tranquil hidden coves line the route, leading the walker through remote landscapes into picturesque villages and towns. Beyond each brow of a hill or turn of a headland, the path reveals Cornwall’s historical past as if they were scenes from a play.

The path along the north coast is the most remote from civilization. The granite cliffs of Cornwall are always rugged, but they are particularly dramatic in this area as they are more exposed to the Atlantic. Villages and seaside towns are separated by many miles, resulting in the coastal path in this area being incredibly quiet. Our first walk was from Hartland Quay to Duck Pool, which is the toughest part of the Southwest Coastal Path due to its ascents and descents. Over one hundred ships are believed to be wrecked along this area of coast, which can also boast of Roman settlements, waterfalls, grazing cattle, steppingstones and an unusual hillside hut, made from driftwood by poet and clergyman, Reverend Robert Hawker. Yet, strangely, it did not feel odd to also see Goonhilly Space Station nestled within all this beauty as it was just another amazing view to add to our memories. This first walk cemented our plan to walk its entirety, no matter how long it took us.

Further along the north coast (anticlockwise) the journey is less remote as this part of Cornwall has many beaches of fine sand (the sort ideal for castle making!). Polzeath, Newquay, Perranporth, Hayle, St.Ives and Sennen Cove are all popular holiday destinations due to their easy access and wide beaches of soft sand. After several miles of not seeing anyone for a long time, it is surreal to suddenly come across a beach heaving with people enjoying the sunshine. Unknown to the sunbathers and swimmers of these popular beaches, we have passed many quieter beaches on our journey. These hidden coves also have soft sand and, dare I say it, even more vibrant blue/turquoise water, but their poor access means they stay eerily empty. Sometimes there is a lone angler sitting on a rock who has reached it by boat or a local bather who has the stamina and knowledge to access it on foot, but each time we discover one it does feel as if we have stumbled upon a closely guarded secret haven.

Further south along the north coastline, we pass the long stretch used for mining and where derelict engine houses can still be seen standing proud against a backdrop of blue sky and sea. The coast is littered with buildings from throughout history. Remnants of Bronze and Iron Age burial features, castles, eccentric follies, enthusiastic building projects, lighthouses, WW2 defence features, quaint cottages and harbours add interest to the natural landscape.

The south coastline differs from the north due to it being more sheltered from the Atlantic winds. Although the sand is coarser here, the sea is calmer and the coastline is peppered with natural harbours and coastal towns with all the amenities that make this area a popular holiday destination. I have yet to walk this path as part of our journey, however, being Cornish and having lived in Cornwall all my life, I know large parts of it well already.

It is sensible to prepare for each walk. Plenty of water, food, good walking attire and a map are essentials, however I also like to bring additional information about the stretch of coastline we are walking that day. Information about film locations, local myths and legends, and wildlife specific to the area all add to the experience. It is just another way to embrace all that is Cornwall.

The people we pass on our walk vary - the retired but enviously fit couples, the solitary walkers, the runners, the occasional bikers, the rock climbers and the small groups who spread out along the cliff path as they all walk at their own speed but gradually concertina together when a rest is due. These transient meetings are often friendly but limited to a brief greeting as everyone is on the move to a destination. You know you are nearing a coastal town when the number of walkers increase and their attire are not just hiking boots but also flipflops and sandals.

As well as the obvious health benefits, I always end a walk with a new appreciation for Mother Nature, the county and the UK. We might have changeable weather in this part of the world, but the scenery on the coastal path is always breath-taking and a perfect reminder that nature always finds a way to thrive if we respect it in our lifetime.


Places along the coastal path that have inspired scenes in my novels:-

Pepper Cove (between Treyarnon Bay and Porthcorthan) - The Thief's Daughter
Zennor - The Thief's Daughter
Rocky Valley (near Tintagel) - The Daughter of River Valley
A combination of Cornwall's fishing villages - The Daughter of River Valley
Botallack Mine - The Daughter of River Valley
Daymer Bay - A Daughter's Christmas Wish